Grandparents.com has just released a wonderful new article about Grandtravel…
Odd Man Out
One home-schooled boy and nine girls forge friendships on a tour of Italy
by Molly Arost Staub
My grandson Beryn was raised on a sustainable farm in Washington state and home-schooled by his mom, my Ivy League-educated daughter. Although his academic training was superb, his travels were limited to family visits.
When I decided to introduce him to Italy’s art and architecture, I chose Grandtravel, an agency organized to appeal to two generations traveling together, sans the middle generation. We’d have the chance to bond while learning and having fun, without my needing to worry about the details.
Little did I know that I would worry about his being the only boy among a gaggle of girl travelers.
Motorboats, masks, and mosaics
We joined the group in Venice, where we immediately took a gondola ride, passing colorful striped mooring poles and slipping under bridges of all shapes. While I peeked down the side canals past the palaces and the laundry lines, my 11-year-old grandson Beryn watched the driver maneuver the gondola. A different perspective.
When the gondoliers lined up our four vessels on the Grand Canal and serenaded us, I noticed that the other nine grandchildren were girls, mostly 13 or 14. “Yuck!” said my boy.
At first, the kids clung to their grandparents, but the skilled Grandtravel escort accompanying our group, Chicago teacher Jessica O’Neill, was always aware of the youngsters and their interaction. As the girls began to form groups, O’Neill provided games and involved Beryn and the youngest girl, a 10-year-old, in each one.
The youngsters listened dutifully to guides describing the Tintoretto oil in the Doge’s Palace, then the Byzantine mosaic floors and ceilings of the St. Mark’s Basilica. At a mask maker’s workshop, we learned how Venetians wore masks much of the year in 18th Century, not just for Carnevale. Then we all created masks, choosing dainty or large mask forms, picking a palette of colors, and using wax for polish. Beryn said he liked “the creativity everyone showed.”
Beryn especially loved traveling everywhere by boat. We skimmed over the canals on water taxis; saw boats delivering fuel or produce; fireboats; speeding motorboats, and slow funeral boats. We rode a vaporetto (water bus) to the Jewish Ghetto, site of the world’s first ghetto where Jews were locked in every night. Beryn discussed boats and engines with our local tour manager, Mauro Tonelli, who was helpful to all, but especially looked out for Beryn by pointing out things that would interest boys.
Forming friendships on the way to Florence
Teacher O’Neill became more involved on the train to Florence. With snacks, games, and crafts, she helped the kids get to know each other. By now, with O’Neill’s help, friendships were forming. She saw to it that no one was left out.
When we visited the Palazzo Vecchio, we were greeted by a lively costumed actor emulating the 16th-century architect and writer Giorgio Vasari. Pointing to one of the grandmothers wearing slacks, he said, “You must be a man, since you’re wearing underpants!” And, “You’re from America? You must be savages.”
He presented small doses of history, and whisked us past some of the famous highlights. In a locked room, he pointed to a fresco inspired by the four elements and asked what they were. Only one student knew: My Beryn! This farm boy gained a little more respect from the others!
Our guide at the Uffizi Gallery, Italy’s most important painting museum, didn’t want to overwhelm the youngsters either. He pointed out just a few of the notables, such as Michelangelo’s only painting on wood, Sacra Famiglia (The Holy Family), and Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus. Then it was on to the Accademia Gallery for my favorite, Michelangelo’s powerful sculpture of David.
Later, we drove into the Tuscan Hills to a 15th century farm, I Bonsi. The group learned how wine is made from the farm’s grapes and oil made from its olives. Then it was into the kitchen, where all of us donned aprons and sliced and diced, minced and chopped, sautéed, and baked. We prepared our meal under the tutelage of a professional chef, and then lunched on the results.
We motorcoached to Siena, the entire city on UNESCO’s protected list, then toured a medieval village where artisans displayed their wares including jewelry and wood carvings. The girls were taken with the shopping. Later, the kids rode horses and swam in a pool within sight of the Tuscan hills. The youngsters expressed relief from museum-hopping while they splashed each other, like friends do.
Beryn acknowledged, “It was kind of weird at first, because I expected the group to be evenly boys and girls. But it worked out all right. I became friendly with a couple of the girls.” Jessi Peck, 13, of Corte Madera, Calif., in particular, spent lots of time with Beryn. She said she has tons of brothers and knows what boys like.
Last stop: Rome
O’Neill again kept the youngsters amused with games and secret doings on our way back to Rome. Not one child said he or she was bored or unhappy. And now they were a group.
Tour manager Tonelli and O’Neill had been teaching the youngsters Italian words. When we checked into our hotel in Rome on the Via Veneto, they could greet the concierges with “Buongiorno,” ask for the room key, thank them, etc. They were feeling very cosmopolitan.
The immense Colosseum, dedicated in 80 A.D., deeply moved many. (And grandmoms and granddads were delighted using the elevators that were installed.) The grandchildren knew that Christian gladiators and prisoners were pitched against each other and against lions and hyenas, but were shocked at the underground quarters where the Romans kept and trained them. Equally appalling was learning that the Colosseum had been built over an eight-year period by 100,000 slaves brought from defeated Israel. And they gasped when they heard that 5,000 animals were killed within 100 days. Great lessons in cruel governments.
At our last dinner we learned what all the secretive buzzing with O’Neill had been about. The youngsters presented the grandparents with tongue-in-cheek awards and gifts they had made themselves.
“I noticed the girls often liked different things than I did,” Beryn said. “For instance, I thought it was funny in Florence when they got all excited about buying knock-off sunglasses on the Ponte Vecchio, while I was more interested in where the gladiators were kept at the Colosseum in Rome. But it was no big deal; after all, my best friend at home is a girl.” Looking back on his trip to Italy with nine girls, Beryn said, “We had plenty of fun together.”
Click here for see the link on Grandparents.com.
GRANDTRAVEL
Just the other day the little town of 830 residents of Tekapo, New Zealand made headline news as the possible first ever location of a UNESCO approved “Starlight Reserve” or dark sky park. The town has converted to low-energy sodium outdoor lamps, downward facing household lights and much more to protect the amazing night sky above. With virtually no light pollution, the cosmos really comes to life above the town. Astronomers and stargazers flock from around the world to this site to revel in the amazing views.
We have just ushered in a new President and Administration and we now find ourselves headed for a new era of politics and government in Washington, D.C. Millions of people crowded onto the National Mall on January 20th to witness history as our new President was sworn in.
